Denim Jacket Codes 2025 [ Characteristics by Type, Latest Men’s Snapshots and Recommended Items ].

In this issue, we will introduce the latest coordinates & recommended items for four types of denim jackets for reference, based on the characteristics of each type of “denim jacket” that every mature man should know!

Denim jackets with nearly 150 years of historyWhat is the origin? What types of designs are there?

In the 1870s, Levi Strauss, founder of Levi’s, developed jeans as durable and breathable utility wear for cowboys, coal miners and railroad workers in the gold rush West. Around 1880, the company manufactured the “Triple Pleated Blouse” and “Riveted Blouse” as work jackets to go with them. This is considered the prototype of the denim jacket. It was originally intended to be worn as a top and bottom garment (“denim-on-denim” as we know it today), and was a simple design with four buttons and one breast pocket. After numerous improvements, in the 1930s, Levi’s introduced a denim jacket with the lot number “506XX”. At the same time, Lee, a food and general merchandise wholesaler, began manufacturing denim clothing and introduced the “101 Slim Jacket” (COWBOY type), a western-style denim jacket, in 1931. In Japan, it is often called “G-jan,” but this is a Japanese-English word and is said to be an abbreviation of “jean jumper.

Levi's

Incidentally, Levi’s denim jackets are often described in four types, “First,” “Second,” “Third,” and “Force,” in chronological order from the earliest models, but this is said to be a classification made for convenience by Japanese used clothing importers and not an official name given by Levi’s. Levi’s uses Roman numerals for numbering, such as “TYPE I” and “TYPE II,” as well as the designation “trucker jacket” as another name for denim jackets.

Next, we will review six typical types of denim jackets!

The essentials of Levi's 1st/2nd/3rd/4th, Lee's 101J and Wrangler's 111MJCheck out the differences between the six types that are considered the base of the modern denim jacket!

Modern denim jackets have standard models that many brands use as their base design. In addition to the four most major Levi’s models, Lee’s “101J” and Wrangler’s “111MJ” mentioned above are also considered to be among the original models. Here is a quick look at the characteristics of each of the six models. Each type is described in detail below, so please check the corresponding part for the type you are interested in.

Denim Jacket Types 1Levi's 1st Type

The first type, identified by the Levi’s lot number “506XX,” has action pleats on the front by the buttons and a low left chest position only. The patch pockets are the most distinctive feature. Early models did not have flaps on the front pockets, and jackets prior to the 1936 version did not have the big “E” red tab. The back waistband was equipped with a belt (cinch-back) for size adjustment, but this needle-stick cinch was unpopular with cowboys because it damaged cars, sofas, and horse saddles, so it was replaced by a buckle without a needle from the 1946 postwar model, and from the succeeding 507XX, the cinch-back was replaced by an adjuster belt on the waistband instead of a cinch-back. From around 1940 to 1945, under World War II material controls, pocket flaps were omitted, buttons were reduced to four, and other minimalist details were distributed. These are what are known as “World War II models,” and they are still regularly reissued today. The first type is known as the most rugged denim jacket and can be said to be the cornerstone of all denim jackets in the world today.

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Find 1st type denim jackets.

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Types of Denim Jackets 2Levi's 2nd Type

Levi’s “507XX” was introduced in 1952 and is the so-called ” second type” denim jacket. The main changes from the ” 506XX ” were the double breast pockets with button-flap closures, bar tacks (stitching for reinforcement), and button adjusters for size adjustment. The “second type” denim jacket, with its enhanced functionality as workwear but with a modern interpretation, gained status as a fashion item along with jeans through the styles of James Dean, Marlon Brando, and Steve McQueen, who were regarded as icons of the new type. The image of the cowboy style popularized by the Western movies of the 1930s was transformed into a cooler and more stylish image created by Hollywood stars in the 1950s and 1960s.

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Find 2nd type denim jackets.

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Denim Jacket Types 3Levi's 3rd type

The most popular type of denim jacket, popularly known as the trucker jacket and the most popular type of denim jacket, is called the “perfect denim jacket. The most popular “third type” is based on the “557XX” that Levi’s introduced in 1962. The most distinctive feature is the home base type flap pockets on both chests and the V-shaped stitching that goes with them, which creates a masculine look on the chest and a slim and neat impression on the waist. While Levi’s “506XX” First and “507XX” Second are made of 9 oz. unshrunk denim, “557XX” Third is made of 12 oz. denim with a shrink-proof finish. Accordingly, the ” XX ” was gradually eliminated from the model numbers on patches from around 1964.

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Find 3rd type denim jackets.

Denim Jacket Types 4Levi's 4th Type

The force type is based on Levi’s ” 70505″, which was released in 1966. At a quick glance, the design is almost the same as the third type “557XX,” but it has a slimmer body width and slightly longer length than the ” 557XX,” resulting in a sleeker silhouette. From the first to the force, Levi’s has consistently used 100% cotton selvage denim made by Cone Mills, but as mentioned above, they switched to shrink-proof denim in the middle of the third model, so the “70505” force model does not have the ” XX” sign.

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Find 4th type denim jackets.

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Types of Denim Jackets 5Lee 101J Type

Levi’s updates its designs to meet the needs of the times. In contrast to Levi’s denim jackets, which update their designs to meet the needs of the times, Lee’s denim jackets have established a unique position with a design that has remained almost unchanged from the time of their birth to the present. The “101J” type denim jacket, which has become a Lee icon as an enduring masterpiece, was launched in 1931 as the “101 Slim Jacket,” a western style designed for cowboys. The most striking feature of the “101J” type, which differentiates it from all other Levi’s denim jackets, is the inward sloping breast pockets, which were designed to allow cowboys to reach into the opposite pocket while riding their horses. It also features a short length and a wide waistband, which is designed to provide a better fit by increasing the width of the waistband and to prevent the jacket from flipping up while riding a horse. The “101J” type also features fewer metal parts to prevent injury in the event of a fall from a horse, as well as zigzag stitching and double stitching to enhance toughness.

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Find Lee 101J

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Denim Jacket Types 6Wrangler 111MJ Type

Wrangler’s “111MJ” is a functional and beautiful jacket for everyday use. The “111MJ” is a denim jacket that brings the functional beauty of a jacket that has been trained in the field of continuous movement directly into your daily life. The action pleats on the back allow for a wide range of motion around the shoulders and prevent sticking even when the arms are held out in front of the body. The W-stitching on the breast pockets, snap buttons, and the round-can closure that holds the front pleats in place emphasize the toughness of the work-derived design, while the short length and slightly boxy silhouette connect naturally with today’s wide pants and tailored slacks. The medium-dark to dark blue heavy-weight fabric becomes more expressive the more it is worn, and has a wide range of uses, from active weekend wear to smart casual wear in the city. It is a standard item that allows you to experience the true nature of a “tracker that can move” with just one piece of clothing.

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Check out the Wrangler 111MJ.

Next, we pick up four types of coordinates from the latest street snaps.

Denim Jacket Codes 1Armed Denim on Denim with full masculinity

“Denim on Denim” is one of the royal ways to wear a denim jacket. Since it is an outfit with quite a lot of character, the trick is to keep it simple and not embellish it with layers or colors, and to keep it simple by wearing only a white T-shirt as an inner layer. As shown here, we recommend rolling up the jeans or folding up the sleeves of the denim jacket to draw out the kudos of the denim.

Denim Jacket Coordinate 2Dress Mix Style with Tied-Up Shirt and Slacks

Shuhei Nishiguchi, of BEAMS F, created a mix style by wearing a 2nd type denim jacket with a tied-up shirt and slacks. Mr. Shuhei Nishiguchi of BEAMS F. You may think, “How can a denim jacket go with a tied-up jacket? You might think, “How can a denim jacket go with a tie-up? Mr. Nishiguchi adds a more advanced element to the mix: the denim jacket and reverse-patterned tie are American, while the checkered shirt and slacks are British.

Denim Jacket Coordinate 3A-line coordinate utilizing the short length of the denim jacket

Short-length outerwear and over-length bottoms that provide cushion at the feet are the mainstream these days. The A-line silhouette created by this combination is one of the current trends in men’s fashion style. Since denim jackets are originally short in length, it is easy to complete a modern look by simply combining them with trendy silhouette pants. Denim-on-denim in different colors like the man shown here, or loose-fitting chinos, etc. are also recommended.

Denim Jacket Coordinate 4Layer as an inner layer of heavy outerwear for an unexpected and fashionable look

Denim jackets are rather a kind of light outerwear, so they are a bit inadequate for use as outerwear on days with low temperatures. In such a season, you can wear a coat or a blue jacket. In such a season, it is possible to wear it as an inner layer under a coat or blouson-type outerwear. Not only can you enjoy layering, but you can also add the unexpectedness of using an outer garment as an inner layer, helping to raise the fashion deviation level of your winter coordinate.

We have also compiled a gallery of other denim jacket coordinates for your reference, so be sure to check them out as well.

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Recommended Denim Jackets Introduction

Recommended Denim Jacket 1

We’ve introduced a lot of Levi’s denim jackets above, so here we I’d like to introduce a vintage model that has been reissued as an archive model with a taste. This is a 1953 TYPE II trucker jacket. The “Two Horse” lot number 507 leather patch, front buttons with double pleats on both sides, waist back adjuster, and even the Big E red tab have been faithfully reproduced, and the faded finish gives it a worn-in look. It is an austere piece of clothing that gives you a taste of the atmosphere of the time.

Levi's

Click here for details and purchase.

Recommended Denim Jacket 2Acne Studios 'Relaxed Fit Denim Jacket'

Denim items such as trompe l’oeil denim and damaged jeans have been extremely popular these days. There is a wide selection of denim jackets, ranging from simple to quirky designs this season. This time, we picked up a loose silhouette black denim jacket. It is based on the popular 3rd type, and the fabric is in a monotone color that is easy to match, making it an easy-to-use piece while incorporating the modern element of being oversized.

SSENSE

Click here for details and purchase.

Recommended Denim Jacket 3

“Future Archive” that will not fade away even after 10 or 20 years. The concept of BEAMS’ project “FUTURE ARCHIVE” is to create a “future archive” that will not fade away even 10 or 20 years from now. This denim jacket is based on the 3rd type, but accented with a unique curved chest pocket flap design and thicker No. 8 stitching. Also, by using a denim material with warp threads woven together with lame threads, the lame portion reflects and shines when the light hits it, adding a playful touch. The item’s name “glitter” is derived from this lame thread.

BEAMS

Click here for details and purchase

Recommended Denim Jacket 4MAISON MARGIELA 'Distressed Denim Jacket'

This denim jacket from Maison Margiela is designed with a minimalist look that eliminates stitchwork. The overall stitching and pleats are omitted, although the position of the pockets suggests that it is based on the 2nd type. Instead, it features Margiela’s iconic design of a co-woven elbow patch at the elbow and four stitches on the back of the neck. In addition to the stonewashed finish, a paint splatter design is also added, creating a simple but unique design.

maisonmargiela.com

Click here for details and purchase

FAQ

What is the right denim-on-denim?Matching tones for a unified look

Match the top and bottom tones or swing to either top dark x bottom medium dark. Shoes should be white or black and achromatic. Use silver for accessories. Match a heavily processed upper garment with a plain lower garment to control the amount of information.

What is the solution to the problem of bulging when layered with a hoodie or knit?Organize the thickness of layers to avoid bulging

Choose a 3rd/4th with a body width +3-5cm room and shoulder width +1-2cm, assuming a coat-in. Hoodies with smaller hoods and thinner knits and knitwear around 12 gauge are easier to handle. Fasten the front to the second button to emphasize the vertical direction.

For active days at the park with the kids?Choose items that emphasize range of motion and durability

Choose Wrangler-type or action-pleat-equipped, lightweight 11-12 oz. garments that prioritize mobility. Pants should be water repellent wide and shoes durable sneakers. The top should be plain and photo-ready.

Avoid damaged or flashy designs

Avoid excessive damage, excessive contrast stitching, and using with slim, long length pants. Cut down on embellishments and differentiate with materials and silhouettes. Keep color fading to a single point, and keep the rest of the collection colorless.

What color and which type is the right choice for your first piece of clothing?Dark blue 3rd type is the most versatile

Dark blue 3rd ( Type III ). Shoulder width +1cm, length belt +/- 1cm, can cover 90% of TPO. Charcoal bottom and white or black innerwear never fails.